cHANDELIER "LANCASTER’ cast antique brass finish, hand blown Scavo glass shades 34wx30h…9 – 60w sockets?
I guess you can I have never one had my self?
I guess you can I have never one had my self?
1.I am building up a supply of aluminum to melt and was wondering if coffee cans are aluminum.
2. Sources for cast iron? I don’t want to buy any unless its scrap or something. It is also to melt. (please don’t leave answers telling me how foolish this is or anything, I’ve got it under control
3. Is it necessary to add zinc to molten brass since it might vaporize?
Thanks,
ThE aSkEr
*Edit*
1 more thing! Any place I can obtain 3000 F refractory (castable)
1) Most likely coffee cans do not contain any aluminum. Use a magnet to tell for sure. Aluminum & brass are non-magnetic, cast iron IS magnetic (brass is also obviously "copper colored.")
2) Best way to get cast iron is from a junk yard or recycler. Cans have impurities like coatings on the inside & glue on the outside.
3) No, you don’t need to add zinc to molten brass when melting.
The brass ingots are melted in a crucible that is under inductance which causes it to self stir. It looks like Disney’s blubber except red and extremely hot!
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For a story, I want to reflect light. There is no glass, Think of the bronze age, they can cast copper or bronze, which would you use and how would you make it flat? Hammer and polish it? roll it between stone rollers
They are very similar, bronze is harder, so it should resist dents better. They would both hold a polish equally well. Copper would be easier to form, if strength is not important.
rolling between stone rollers would not be practical. Hammering would be best, with increasingly finer taps. Then polish it with pumice, of different grades, starting with coarse and working down to fine grade.
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Out of that list only steel and cast iron are magnetic
I managed to find out what it was called, but beyond that I haven’t been able to find any background info about it at all.
The scabbard is marked Alfred Cornish, Omaha Neb.
The hilt is one piece of cast brass with a large pommel and a ribbed gripping area. The crossguard is streight with upcurled tips. The blade is 7 5/8" curved, AND double edged.
The scabbard and the crossguard are both stamped with the name of the soldier and his id number, (as was the other example I saw on the net). The soldier in question was in the Army and fought in the Pacific, specifically in the Phillipene islands. Any information or links about The Nichols Combat knife or links would be greatly appreciated. I’m particularly curious about how many were made, and whether they were issue or personal items.
I don’t know if this knife was a limited-issue item or if it was purchased by the individual or if it was presented to him as he went off to war by, say, The local merchants association.
this might help, although i am unfarmillair with that knife
http://www.militaryfightingknives.com/collection.html
Rautomead RS2500 Vertical Upwards casting machine producing 8mm 65:35 redraw rod. features graphite crucible, low voltage graphite restance heating, 4 tonne pancake coilers and liquid feed from an Induction furnace and Launder.
www.rautomead.co.uk
e-mail sales@rautomead.com
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i think its a 100 engineers chain 22 yards long (66ft), Made by Chesterman – Sheffield, England with cast brass handles and 9 tags is it worth owt
Well, I’d just check around on ebay if they have any there. You just need to find someone who thinks it’s a nice antique, of course. I couldn’t imagine what someone would do with one though.
Here’s one on ebay going for more than $100
Mike removed the crucible of molten brass and is preparing to pour into the investment mold. He is wearing the full protection gear for working with molten metals at extreme temperatures. The investment mold contains the negative of chess pieces.
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