I want to cast my own tattoo machines out of brass or aluminum?

Hi i want to start casting my own tattoo machines thing is i am a newbie to casting and or making moulds i really want to work with aluminum and brass but cost is a big thing what kind of mould should i use and the easiest and cheapest and where i can find how to make them?

I’ve used Plaster of Paris for casting aluminum. I use “Pam” cooking spray as a parting compound to help release the pattern. I also use Wax paper as the “Parting Line” break in-between front and back half’s of the mold.

I’ve used old Tupper ware to cast the pattern into or made up wood frames to pour the plaster of Paris into. I then submerge the pattern ~ half way into the plaster. I then use a spatula to level the mold to the top of the frame/Tupper ware. I let the plaster cure about 30 minutes and place wax paper cut the patter to allow a separation of the two plaster half’s. I then make the top half of the pattern my pouring more plaster of Paris on top of the bottom half of the mold.

After the plaster has cured ~ 2 hour, I remove the pattern and gently wash out the “Pan” with dish soap. I then cut my fill and vent holes in the Bottom half of the mold. Note I usually pour into the back side of the mold to allow for the removal of the spruces with out damaging the casting.

I let the plaster cure over night. On the day of the pour I start early by pre heating the houses oven to 200 Degrees F. I cook the plaster for 2 hours and then when I’m starting the forge, I heat the oven up to 500.

I hold the two half of the mold together with c-clamps.

The pre-heating of the plaster help to prevent the aluminum from forming cold pour lines in the final item.

Yes the plaster of Paris will pop and crack as it cools off, but it works.

I hope this helps, Charles
Ride safe (Motorcycles) that is!

Trial and error and 30 year of pouring behind me.

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One Response to I want to cast my own tattoo machines out of brass or aluminum?

  1. Calvin 55 says:

    I’ve used Plaster of Paris for casting aluminum. I use “Pam” cooking spray as a parting compound to help release the pattern. I also use Wax paper as the “Parting Line” break in-between front and back half’s of the mold.

    I’ve used old Tupper ware to cast the pattern into or made up wood frames to pour the plaster of Paris into. I then submerge the pattern ~ half way into the plaster. I then use a spatula to level the mold to the top of the frame/Tupper ware. I let the plaster cure about 30 minutes and place wax paper cut the patter to allow a separation of the two plaster half’s. I then make the top half of the pattern my pouring more plaster of Paris on top of the bottom half of the mold.

    After the plaster has cured ~ 2 hour, I remove the pattern and gently wash out the “Pan” with dish soap. I then cut my fill and vent holes in the Bottom half of the mold. Note I usually pour into the back side of the mold to allow for the removal of the spruces with out damaging the casting.

    I let the plaster cure over night. On the day of the pour I start early by pre heating the houses oven to 200 Degrees F. I cook the plaster for 2 hours and then when I’m starting the forge, I heat the oven up to 500.

    I hold the two half of the mold together with c-clamps.

    The pre-heating of the plaster help to prevent the aluminum from forming cold pour lines in the final item.

    Yes the plaster of Paris will pop and crack as it cools off, but it works.

    I hope this helps, Charles
    Ride safe (Motorcycles) that is!

    Trial and error and 30 year of pouring behind me.
    References :
    Of yes, Sand can be used: http://www.backyardmetalcasting.com Mixing molding sand (greensand)